This seafood frittata (torta de mariscos) would have to be close to the top of any list of classic, peerless, sensational Veracruzan dishes. You find different versions everywhere, but it belongs mostly to the central southern coasts and waterways of Sotavento.
I call it a “frittata” but that’s a rough fit at best. Tortas and tortillas are essentially “round cakes,” dishes that have certain recognizable shapes no matter what’s in them. The Veracruzan torta de mariscos consists of seafood and egg combined and cooked in a round frying pan. There are 3-inch versions, and others the size of large pies. There are ones with a little seafood suspended in a lot of egg, and ones that are nearly all seafood, just barely bound together with an egg or two. The kind I like best is somewhere between a thick, tender pancake and a fluffy, moist, flat omelet cooked golden on all sides. It is best if the egg whites are beaten separately and then combined with the yolks, but I’ve had good versions where they weren’t.
Like many Veracruzan seafood dishes, this one depends on a versatile mishmash of very fine seafood cut up quite fine. People automatically make up a relleno or salpicón from the best ingredients on hand or the ones they feel like sampling at the moment. They might add tiny sweet oysters, hashed fish, or cooked, diced conch or octopus. Play with the mixture as you like, but remember that it shouldn’t be watery and that you want a total of 2-2½ pounds (I used two pounds this time but sometimes use more depending on how many people will be eating. Two pounds was perfect for 6 people).
Mexican Seafood Frittata (Torta de mariscos)
Ingredients
- 1 small white onion unpeeled
- 2 cloves garlic unpeeled
- 5 bay leaves
- 1½-2 teaspoons salt or to taste
- 1 pound shrimp any preferred size, in the shell
- ½ pound cleaned squid bodies only, cut into ¼-inch dice to make about 1 cup; reserve tentacles for another use,
- 1 pound lump crabmeat picked over to remove bits of shell and cartilage
- 1 medium-sized white onion peeled
- 2 large or 4-5 medium-sized ripe tomatoes about 1 pound, peeled and seeded
- 2 jalapeño chiles seeded
- ½ small bunch Italian parsley
- ½ bunch cilantro
- ½ small bunch of mint leaves only
- ½ small bunch Mediterranean oregano leaves only
- ¼ cup finely crushed soda cracker crumbs or best-quality fine, dry bread crumbs from good French or Italian bread (no substitutes)
- 4 eggs separated
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
Instructions
- Place the unpeeled onion and garlic, bay leaves, and about 1 teaspoon of the salt in a large saucepan or medium-sized stockpot with 2 quarts of water. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce the heat to maintain a low, rolling boil and cook for 5 minutes.
- Add the shrimp and cook another 2-3 minutes (depending on their size), skimming off any froth that rises to the top.
- Quickly lift out the shrimp with a mesh skimmer or slotted spoon, letting them drain well. Place in a bowl and set aside to cool.
- Remove the onion and garlic from the simmering stock; discard. Add the squid and cook for 3 minutes.
- Lift out the squid with a mesh skimmer or slotted spoon, letting them drain well. Set aside. Reserve the stock for another purpose (it will make a delicious fish soup).
- Peel and devein the cooked shrimp. Chop fine and place in a large mixing bowl with the squid and crab meat.
- Chop the peeled onion, tomatoes, jalapeños, and fresh herbs very finely and add to the bowl of seafood. Toss to distribute the ingredients evenly.
- Sprinkle the cracker crumbs and another ½-1 teaspoon salt over the mixture and toss very thoroughly.
- In a medium-sized mixing bowl, beat the egg whites until they form glossy, not-quite-stiff peaks.
- Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition to incorporate thoroughly.
- With a rubber spatula, gently fold the beaten eggs into the seafood mixture.
- In a heavy-bottomed, medium-sized (about 10-inch) omelet pan or skillet (see recipe notes above), heat the oil over medium-high heat until fragrant but not quite rippling. Reduce the heat to low. Pour or spoon the seafood mixture into the pan, smoothing it firmly with a spatula to spread it evenly without air pockets on the bottom. Cook, uncovered, for 8 minutes.
- Flip the cake onto a plate and slide it back into the pan. (If necessary, loosen it with a spatula, but I’ve never had a problem.) Cook for another 3 minutes, until golden, on the underside.
- Transfer to a platter or large plate and serve hot, cut into wedges.
