Photo by Laurie Smith www.lauriesmithphoto.com
Griddle roasting chiles and vegetables is both a flavor principle and an essential technique for achieving true Mexican flavor. It aids in removing the peel and adds a haunting smoky flavor. Don’t be tempted to put them under the broiler which does not bring out the natural sugars and the flavor will not be nearly as interesting or authentic.
Griddle-roasting. This is the preferred method for chiles that are to be chopped and puréed in sauces. The principle is the same for griddle-roasting onions or tomatoes — the flavor is deepened but also mellowed by searing on a hot surface. Don’t try to work with too many at a time; if you crowd the griddle you will not have enough room to roast properly.
Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Add the chiles, a few at a time, and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until the skin is blackened and blistered on all sides. Remove from the griddle as they are done and place in a plastic or brown paper bag. Let sit for about 5 minutes, until the skins soften enough to be easily removed. Remove the chiles from the bag; using your fingers and a small sharp knife, peel and scrape off as much of the blackened skin as possible. (A few black specks don’t matter.) Cut off and discard the tops with the main part of the seedy core; slit the chiles lengthwise from top to bottom and scrape out any remaining seeds. I usually do not cut out the membranes (the hottest part), but if you want to tone down the heat this is an easy way to do it.
NOTE: When I want to keep chiles crunchy to use them in salads or cut them in rajas (strips), I like to char green chiles over an open flame by impaling them, one at a time, at the stem end on a long-handled fork or skewer and holding directly in the flame, turning to blacken them evenly on all sides. Place in a bag and peel as directed above.
To griddle-roast onions and garlic: Heat a heavy ungreased griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Place the unpeeled onion and individual unpeeled garlic cloves on the griddle. Cook, turning frequently, until somewhat softened, about 15 – 20 minutes for small onions, 20 – 25 minutes for medium-size onions, and 8 minutes for garlic cloves. With large onions I usually cut them in half crosswise (leaving the skin on) and roast, turning frequently, for about 20 minutes. The cut side will char, but the black bits are easily scraped off. Remove the onions or garlic cloves from the griddle; when cool enough to handle, peel them over a bowl to catch the juices.
To griddle-roast tomatoes: Heat the griddle or skillet over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Place the tomatoes on the griddle stem side down. (Started this way they lose less juice.) Cook, turning frequently, until the skin is blackened and blistered all over, about 10 – 15 minutes for small to medium and 15 – 20 minutes for larger tomatoes. Remove from the griddle to a bowl that will hold the juices. When they are cool enough to handle, peel off the charred skin. If some tiny blackened bits remain, they will just add to the flavor. Be sure to save all the delicious juices and add them to the dish. Photo by Manu Bastien www.manuphoto.com
