Photos by Pedro Luis de Auuinaga

One of the many charms of visiting Oaxaca city is visiting the surrounding villages.  Mostspecialize in a particular craft or product. the nearby town of  Zaachila has a curious specialty: wood for different kinds of  grilling or cooking that they sell at a market dedicated only to that. We stupidly did not get a picture of the mraket) The futbol field -restaurant La Capilla is a major consumer.

Set amid a canopy of tall trees with thick trunks, some of which have been cut down to make tables and benches big enough to seat whole families.   When I first  went there in 1987 or so, the “floor” was a muddy mess, the smoke from the grills and stoves created a mysterious  atmosphere with the cooks appearing and disappearing in the haze,  It was a giant palapa, or thatched hut.  Noe it is not quite as charming but it is much more pleasant to be in and, I imagine, less prone to catching fire.

I go there for one thing: to eat their paper-thin gigantic tlayudas, toasted yard=wide toasted corn tortillas.  I like it simply smeared with the sedim ent that accumulates when rendering lard, crunchy little bits of chicharrones or pork cracklings. but this last time I was there we ordered a combinada that had , not just asiento, but layers if black beans,  mole, cheese, and assorted garnishes.

My other favorite dish there is the cecina.  Click on it and you’ll have the recipe.

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Everywhere I go where I see a lone guitar player or a group of musicians, I have to sing a particular song called La Malpagadora, plus others if the musician and I click and if the price is right.  My sister, Marina, brother-in-law Joel, and my dear friends Pedro and Laurie had no other recourse but to listen.  Thankfully, they liked it.

Laurie crying,. She says with emotion, not pain!