Pour lukewarm water into small, shallow bowl and sprinkle yeast and 2 teaspoons of the granulated sugar over it. Let yeast and sugar rest 2-3 minutes, then stir to mix ingredients well. Set in warm, draft-free place (such as an unlit oven) about 10 minutes, until yeast bubbles up and mixture almost doubles in volume.

Combine 3½ cups of the flour, the remaining ½ cup of granulated sugar, nutmeg, and salt and sift into deep mixing bowl. Stir in lemon peel, then make well in center and pour yeast mixture and milk into it. Add egg yolks and, with large wooden spoon, gradually incorporate dry ingredients into liquid ones. When mixture is smooth, beat in the 8 tablespoons of butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Continue to beat about 2 minutes longer, until dough can be gathered into medium-soft ball.

Place ball on lightly floured surface and knead, pushing dough down with heels of your hands, pressing it forward and folding it back on itself. As you knead, incorporate up to 1 cup more flour, sprinkling over ball by the tablespoonful. When dough is no longer sticky, knead about 10 minutes longer, until smooth, shiny, and elastic.

With pastry brush, over inside of large bowl evenly spread 1 tablespoon of softened butter. Set dough in bowl, and roll about to butter entire surface. Drape bowl with kitchen towel and put in draft-free place 1½ hours or until dough doubles in volume.

Brush large baking sheet with remaining tablespoon of softened butter.Punch dough down with your fist and place on lightly floured surface. Scatter citron over top, knead dough until citron is well distributed, then pat and shape into cylinder about 14 inches long. Loop cylinder onto buttered baking sheet and pinch ends together to form ring.

Press pecan half or dried bean gently into ring so that it is completely hidden by dough. Redrape dough with towel and set in draft-free place to rise about 45 minutes, until ring doubles in volume.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Top ring with candied fruit or sprinkle with sugar, then bake 20-25 minutes.