Field Tomato Sauce (Tachogobi)
Tomates de milpa skin is fairly thick and the flavor is extremely rich and concentrated, especially in Mexico. Unfortunately, they can be hard to find. Look for them in late summer or early fall at large farmers’ markets, where they may be sold by growers who specialize in either heirloom or newer-than-new varieties. You can substitute small sweet, flavorful currant, grape, or cherry tomatoes -- eat one to be sure. It should have a sweet, intense quality. I think grape tomatoes are usually the better bet. Larger tomatoes are not a good substitute -- too much water, not enough flavor.Late tomato season is also the time to see if any nearby farmer’s market has very tiny (about the size of a shelled peanut or smaller) fresh hot chiles like the Veracruzan fresh chilpayas used in this dish. Otherwise substitute dried chiltepín chiles. For the authentic tachogobi of the lakeside cafés, the miniature tomatoes used to be crushed by hand and all the ingredients were pounded or ground together in a stone mortar. Here I use a blender or food processor, but I normally make sure to stop while the mixture still has some texture.
Ingredients
- 6 cloves garlic coarsely chopped
- 1½-2 tablespoons extra tiny fresh hot chiles
- 1 teaspoon salt or to taste
- 12-13 ounces red or yellow currant tomatoes (see above) or very small, sweet grape or cherry tomatoes
- 2 tablespoons lard, preferably
home-rendered
Instructions
- Place the garlic, chiles, and salt in a blender or food processor and process for a few seconds. Add the tomatoes and process just until the ingredients come together in a chunky sauce.
- In a medium-sized saucepan, heat the lard to rippling over medium-high heat. Add the tomato mixture, bring to a boil, and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes to mellow the flavors and concentrate slightly.
Notes
If you are lard-phobic, please take the time to read an article on lard that Ruth Reichl commissioned from me or watch my video Praise the Lard on youtube.